I've been cutting metal wall art here in Auckland since 2007. In that time I've made more than 50,000 pieces for homes and gardens across New Zealand and Australia, so I've learned a fair bit about what lasts and what doesn't.
This guide is about metal wall art specifically: what it's actually made from, how the different metals cope with our weather, and how to pick a piece you'll still be happy with in ten years. If you want the broader how-to on size, height and placement for any kind of wall art, I've written a separate designer's guide to choosing wall art that covers that side of things.
Metal wall art is what it sounds like: a design cut and shaped from metal rather than printed onto canvas or board. Mine is cut from steel, aluminium, stainless or corten, then finished by hand in my studio. Some pieces are practical, like house numbers and address signs, and plenty are purely decorative, from native birds and ferns to koru and simple modern shapes.
The reason people choose metal over a canvas or timber print is straightforward. Metal doesn't fade in the sun, it won't warp or rot, and when it's finished properly it lives outdoors as happily as it does inside.
Most of the confusion I hear about comes down to the material. They aren't interchangeable, so here is how I use each one.
Powder-coated steel. For most homes, this is what I'd point you to. I use high-grade 304 steel, the same grade as a good stainless BBQ, then powder coat it in your colour. The coating seals the steel against rust and holds its colour through our sun and rain, so it suits both indoor walls and exposed outdoor spots.
Marine-grade 316 stainless. If you're right on the coast or somewhere that cops salt air, brushed 316 stainless is the safest choice. It's the same grade used on boats, for good reason.
Corten (weathering steel). Corten is made to rust on purpose, forming that warm orange patina people love in a garden. It's lovely in the right spot, and it copes really well with coastal salt air, but the rust can run and stain nearby paving or a pale wall, so I only recommend it where that won't matter. One thing worth knowing: corten should never be powder coated. It keeps rusting underneath the coating, and eventually the coating fails.
Aluminium. Light and naturally corrosion-resistant, so it's handy for larger pieces where weight matters, and powder-coated aluminium is a great choice near the coast. I powder coat it the same way as steel.
If you want to go deeper, I've written a full comparison of steel, corten and powder-coated finishes.
Inside, you have the most freedom. Powder-coated steel, stainless or aluminium all work, so you can choose on looks alone.
Outside, stick to powder-coated steel, powder-coated aluminium, marine-grade 316 stainless or corten. Just as important as the metal is how it's fixed and where it sits. A piece tucked under an eave has an easier life than one in full sun and salt wind, so factor that in before you choose.
The most common mistake I see is going too small. A piece that's lost on a big wall never looks right. As a rough rule, aim to fill about two-thirds of the wall or the furniture it sits above. Measure the space first, and if you're between sizes, size up. If you love a smaller design, group two or three together so they read as one feature.
Powder coating isn't only protection, it's where you get to match the piece to your home. Black is the classic and suits almost anything. White and sage sit softly against timber and greenery, and corten brings warmth to a planted garden. If you're stuck, I'm always happy to talk it through before you order.
Ask how a piece mounts before you buy, because it changes how easy the job is. Most of mine have pre-cut holes so you can screw them straight to the wall, and some hang on rope. A few designs have small aluminium blocks fixed to the back, which sit the art out from the wall a little and throw a soft shadow behind it for a floating look. I don't supply the screws or hooks, since the right fixing really depends on your wall, whether that's timber, plaster, brick or weatherboard. My installation and care guide covers what to use.
A lot of what I make starts as a custom request. The process is simple. You tell me the idea, I send a design proof to approve, and nothing is cut until you're happy with it. You choose the steel and finish, I laser cut it here in Auckland, and it's coated and checked before it ships. That's how a piece ends up genuinely yours rather than something off a shelf.
Metal art is low effort. Wipe it now and then with a soft, damp cloth, skip the harsh chemicals, and for outdoor pieces check the fixings once a year. If an edge ever gets knocked, a dab of touch-up paint sorts it.
You can browse the full range of metal wall art any time, or get in touch if you'd like something made to fit your space.
Yes, as long as the metal and finish suit the spot. Powder-coated steel, powder-coated aluminium, marine-grade 316 stainless and corten are all made to live outside here. Fixing and placement matter too, so a sheltered wall is always kinder than full sun and salt wind.
A few hold up beautifully. Brushed marine-grade 316 stainless is the classic coastal choice, and powder-coated aluminium and corten both cope really well with salt air too. Powder-coated steel is fine a bit further back from the water.
Not in normal use. The powder coat seals the steel, and I start with high-grade 304. If the coating is ever chipped down to bare metal, a quick touch-up keeps it protected.
Yes. Powder-coated steel and stainless both handle steam and moisture without trouble, which makes them a good fit for bathrooms, kitchens and laundries.
It depends on the piece. Most have pre-cut holes to screw to the wall, some hang on rope, and a few have aluminium blocks on the back that sit the art out for a bit of shadow and depth. I don't include screws or hooks, because the right fixing depends on your wall type, and my installation guide walks through timber, plaster, brick and weatherboard.
I do, and it's a big part of what I make. You send me the idea, I email a design proof to approve, and nothing is cut until you're happy. You choose the steel and finish, and I make it here in Auckland.
Every piece. I've designed and made my work in Auckland since 2007, and it's all cut and finished here from quality NZ steel and aluminium.
Wipe it occasionally with a soft, damp cloth, avoid harsh cleaners, and check the fixings on outdoor pieces once a year. That's really all it needs.
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